Golf Trip, Part IV: North Berwick Golf Club

After a two-hour drive from St. Andrews,
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we squeezed into the last parking spot on the road

that borders the 18th fairway at the
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North Berwick Golf Club at 11:45 a.m.
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We were fairly

confident that any sliced shots from 18 would clear the car, and that any passing cars would

likewise be able to clear our rear bumper, but we were definitely vulnerable on both sides.
As we stretched our legs and put on golf shoes, a local man walking his dog struck up a

conversation, asking where we were from and where we’d played, and telling us about his dog.

The dog, it turns out, used to have drug-sniffing duty at a prison. On one occasion, after

his retirement, he fixed himself next to a North Berwick laborer who was out for a smoke. The

worker asked: “What’s wrong with your
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dog?” Our friend replied: “What are you smoking?”

The conversation ended quickly.
The difference between North Berwick (pronounced BEAR-ick) and St. Andrews was pretty much

summed up in the details of our arrival. The Old Course and the town of St. Andrews have

managed to remain charming, but they are undeniably tourist attractions for golfers and non-

golfers alike. In St. Andrews, you’re more likely to strike up a conversation with another

American than an avuncular local
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walking past your car as you change shoes.